Posts Tagged With: Upgrade

Upgrade: Print without a pc for less than 10‚ā¨ (part 1)

Ever wanted to run your 3D printer directly from SD card? This hack enables you to print from an SD card without the need of a PC.
Basically all you need to do is a cable to connect a SD module to your printer, but in this post I’m also going to show you how to create/adapt a SD module in case you don’t already have one.

You can use any SD module you like. MicroSD, SD, or even build your own! I'll show you how

You can use any SD module you like. MicroSD, SD, or even build your own! I’ll show you how

Despite I’m working on a control panel with some innovative features (look here), I’ve been asked to publish a super-cheap solution that can make you print without the need of a pc (or like in my case a Mac).
Printing without the need of a PC has many benefits, the first one of course it’s that… well… you don’t need a PC.
It could seem a stupid thing to say, but when you have to print a big file and you want to use your pc, you realize it’s not that banal after all ūüėČ

Notice that Marlin firmware already supports a feature called “autostart” to automatically print a file from a SD card, but in my opinion it needs some improvments to make it more reliable for the scope we want.
This first post (of 3) will illustrate the “hardware” part of the solution: the SD card reader and how to build the cable to connect it to your printer.
Part two will be about the changes of the firmware, and part three will be about how to provide an enclosure and some improvements for a even better experience.

SKILL: not for a rookie  if you want to build your own SD board, otherwise: not difficult at all
TIME: from 1 to 3 hours, depending on the options
TOOLS: a soldering iron, hot glue (optional)
COMPONENTS:¬†1 SD card module (or components to build it), 30cm of 10 wire ribbon cable, 1 2×5 ¬†female Molex connector, 10 female plugs
1 LED, 1 resistor, 1 push button (see part 3)

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Upgrade: new print-bed in aluminum honeycomb

This is my quick talk about the new “ultralight-superflat-nondeformable-honeycomb-aircraft aluminium” print-bed available on the WASP official website store.

Print-bed honeycomb

Honeycomb structure of the new aluminium print-bed

If you are interested in this upgrade you’ll require:

SKILL:¬†having the¬†opposable thumb…
TIME: 30 minutes
TOOLS: screwdriver
WHAT YOU NEED: 1 Aluminium Y Axis Print-bed, 1 Protective film (optional) 

More or less a month ago my printer has been upgraded with this brand new print-bed that replaced the original plywood one.
It’s made of an aluminum alveolar plane that in the hands feels¬†really ultralight, actually I didn’t weighted it but it’s waaaayyyy lighter than the previous one and at the same time it also feels solid and durable.
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Categories: 3D Printer, Improvements | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

Upgrade: POWERWASP extruder upgrade

This upgrade uses a spring loaded pressure plate to uniform feed regardless of filament thickness. It also compensate some fast retraction problems I had in precedence.


I found that sometimes the filament you buy it’s not always “perfect”… the diameter should change just a little (0,1mm) but what I got recently was not that perfect…
Finding the right¬†amount¬†of pressure it’s a matter of experience, but if the diameter of the filament varies too much, it’s possible that sometimes it will be too loose or too “grindy”.
This is a really simple upgrade that solves brilliantly the problem.

SKILL:¬†nothing special, if you bought a 3D printer this is a pice of cake ūüėČ
TIME: 30 minutes if you drink a coffe meanwhile
TOOLS: nothing special, just scissors, screwdriver and a soldering iron
WHAT YOU NEED: 1 spring (11mm diameter), 1 M5 bolt longher than 7cm, 2 printable caps (I prepared theese:
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